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potentially glorious but very sandy garden

Posted by GSchoenfeld Z6 Brooklyn (My Page) on
Sun, Sep 18, 05 at 20:24

I just bought a house on Coney Island, 2 blocks from the Atlantic Ocean, with a long, narrow backyard, 20' x 50'. The soil is extremely sandy and exposed to bright sunlight most of the day; the only shade is from two wooden fences, 6' high, on both sides of the property. I am planning to put a flagstone patio and path down, and am also looking for a good groundcover that will take hold in these conditions. I would also like to put down a number of other beautiful plants and am looking for ideas about what might flourish in these somewhat unusual conditions. If you have any suggestions, I would be very, very grateful.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: potentially glorious but very sandy garden

  • Posted by fable Z7 LI,NY (My Page) on
    Mon, Sep 19, 05 at 9:15

Before you put plants in why don't you check and see if you have a recycling center that has compsot. Our community has the compost for free. Add this to your soil to hold the water and you can plant many more things. If you are not able to do that some plants tolerate poor soil. My vinca groundcover grows almost anywhere, can be invasive though. This is a listing of plants that tolerate hot, dry soils
achillea. artemesia, coreopsis, grasses (switch grass), lavandula,some salvia(East Friesland"), oriental poppies, hen and chick,thyme. Hope this helps. Also look at some alpines. Lynne


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RE: potentially glorious but very sandy garden

  • Posted by spmimi z6 (brooklyn) (My Page) on
    Tue, Sep 20, 05 at 13:22

my suggestion is forget the compost and add native plants that will work beautifully in sandy sunny locations! and it's not only the sand and the sun, but the proximity of salty water/air that you have to consider.

i don't have my reference book with me now and can't come up with anything off the top of my head (as they are not the conditions that i have and so don't remember all that i have read for sandy soils), but please believe me that there are many native plants that would bloom and thrive in your sand. instead of trying to mold your conditions into something you wish you had, and yes i assume it is theoretically possible to add enough compost that would turn your sand into "normal" garden soil, i still bet you will be pleasantly surprised at what your sandy garden options are.


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RE: potentially glorious but very sandy garden

When I began gardening at the seaside, I amended the sandy soil with lots of peat, compost and manure for several years, with great results - you end up with a really nice light sandy loam and can grow almost anything that will be happy in our zone. But if you'd rather go with what you've got, soil-wise, here are some more plants that seem to thrive in Long Island's sandy soil (in addition to Lynne's list)...
Russian Olive
Rugosa roses
Rosemary (but it's barely hardy here, so give it a sheltered spot and start with young plants)
Butterfly Bush
Russian Sage
Salvia superba (lots of varieties)
Rudbeckias
Sedums
Caryopteris
Honeysuckles
Junipers
Pines
Prickly Pear Cactus

Have fun!
Best,
Jen


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RE: potentially glorious but very sandy garden

NYC is giving away composters and free compost on the weekend of Oct. 22-23 in Brooklyn. Check the NYC Sanitation website for more info.

Best,
Jen


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RE: potentially glorious but very sandy garden

Also check the soil compost and mulch forum. I have very sandy soil too, but it gets better every year since I've been composting.


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RE: potentially glorious but very sandy garden

My garden is on Fire Island, about 500 ft. from the beach, protected by a tall fence, and has almost pure, very acidic sand as a growing medium. I need to water (and the sprinklers/drip hoses are on timers, since it's a weekend house) and I do add peat moss, compost and hydrogel to the sand, along with osmocote (slow release fertilizer). Still, as spmimi above says, it's really just glorified sand and you need to find plants that tolerate or actually enjoy it. Through trial and error, I've found a lot that do. The limiting factor is not drought or salt as much as the soil texture (very coarse) and the pH (4.5 to 5.0). Other people haul in lots of loamy topsoil and have those wooden raised bed things, but I didn't want to play that game or suffer the expense and bother that goes with it. I thought nature, in her glorious variety, would provide plenty of choices for these conditions, and the old girl came through.

These comments will only be helpful if your conditions are like mine. I'd do a pH test first thing. I've failed spectacularly with yarrow (Achillea), lavender, Russian sage (Perovskia), rudbeckia, gaillardia, echinacea, coreopsis, euphorbia, agastache, wall flowers and sea holly. Other things that sounded perfect, like sea lavender and sea kale, bombed. Austrian pine (Pinus nigra) gets too many diseases, as does Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii). Stay away from those. I'd also forego blue spruce (Picea pungens), since they really don't enjoy our climate. If you'd like a pine and your conditions are like mine, pitch pine (Pinus rigida) is the best. Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora) and mugo pine (Pinus mugo) are also very good.

When you are talking trees, it's good to have things that are guaranteed to succeed, since you don't want to replace them all the time like perennials and annuals. Black cherry (Prunus serotina), red cedar (Juniperus virginiana and almost every other kind of juniper), tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica), sassafras (Sassafras albidum), American holly (Ilex opaca), post oak (Quercus stellata), service berry (Amelanchier sp.) and red maple (Acer rubrum) are all native to the seashore area, some in dry places and some in wet. Be aware that black cherry is a messy tree and not good to place over driveways, streets or patios. But the birds sure enjoy them.

I see willows and poplars around a lot, but they are also very messy trees, and short-lived. The cliche tree of all time, red-leaf Japanese maple, is frequently planted, but the leaves usually burn and they never look great. I've been delighted that evergreen southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) does very well, but it's a good idea to get a hardy cultivar such as 'Edith Bogue' or 'Bracken's Brown Beauty'. Even if you don't want a tree, these are worth pruning and training flat and tying on to a fence, if such a garden task appeals to you. The leaves are stunning, as are the flowers, in June.

I'm currently testing smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria) and it did well last year, but too early to tell long term. Moving on to shrubs, all the sumacs are excellent, as are the spiraeas, brooms (Cytisus), barberries (Berberris), blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), bay berry (Myrica pensylvanica), arrow-wood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum), butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii cultivars), chaste-tree (Vitex agnus-castus) and of course the shrubby, low juniper cultivars. I think that shore juniper (Juniperus conferta) from Japan is particularly handsome for a large-scale groundcover. I can get the shrub-type crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia) to flower, but only with a lot of compost and watering. I don't have space to list all the cultivars of the above shrubs, but remember that if you choose a colored-leaf cultivar, like spiraea (Spiraea japonica 'Gold Flame') or barberry (Berberris thunbergii 'Rosy Glow'), you can have vibrant color in your garden for months on end. On the island, everybody plants andromeda shrub (Pieris japonica) and barberry wherever deer browse. They will not touch them.

But you asked about groundcovers. The best are the heaths (Erica carnea) and heathers (Calluna vulgaris). In a nutshell, heaths bloom in winter/early spring and heathers bloom in late summer. Get both. These all come in cultivars with green, gray, or more brightly colored foliage. They are evergreen and very drought tolerant. Your best bet if interested is to explore a mail order nursery listing on line, such as Rock Spray Nursery.

Other great spreading groundcovers for sun are thymes (Thymus species and cultivars), moss phlox (Phlox subulata), wine leaf cinquefoil (Potentilla tridentata), Pussy toes (Antennaria dioica), dusty miller (Artemisia stelleriana), bear berry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), Sedum album and lily turf (Liriope muscari). Sedum lineare And Sedum acre are pests, beware.

It's nice that virtually all ornamental grasses are happy. The only one that failed for me was Deschampsia. You can get very low ornamenal grasses, like blue fescue, or really tall ones, like the big Miscanthus and Panicum cultivars. Sedges look like grasses, but are not, and provide some gorgeous textures and colors (Carex hachijoensis 'Evergold').

I was surprised to find which perennials and biennials did well. Some reliables for me are foxgloves (Digitalis purpurea, D. x mertonensis, D. grandiflora, and the best, D. thapsii 'Spanish Peaks'). Thrift (Armeria cultivars) is excellent. Other reliables are rose campion (Lychnis coronaria), sedum 'Autumn Joy', spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana) field daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare), some pinks (Dianthus 'Mountain Mist, 'Little Bobby', and D. arenarius), and most hardy geraniums like Geranium 'Rozanne', 'Orion', 'Ann Folkard' and G. sanguineum. I see many native goldenrods and asters blooming in the swales between the dunes in fall, but there are less every year because of the deer. The hardy mallows (Hibiscus moscheutos) are magificent in boggy places, wherever they are not being choked out by common reed (Phragmites australis).

Daylilies are iris are possible, but remember that the closer the plant is to the wild form, the more vigor it has and the better to cope with tough conditions. Thus, the common roadside daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) and pale bearded iris (Iris pallida) are more successful than highly hybridized modern cultivars with huge flowers and unusual colors. This is where getting to know your neighbors and sharing old-fashioned plants that have proven their worth pays off.

The suggestion of rugosa roses is excellent. These are widely regarded as having the best fragrance of all roses. I like some of the rugosa cultivars with better bloom and nicer habit such as 'Frau Dagmar Hartopp', 'Jens Munk', 'Therese Bugnet' and 'Henry Hudson'. All the traditional roses: hybrid teas, floribundas and grandifloras, as well as large-flowered climbers, are out of the question in sand. However, I've had great success with the old-fashioned rambler roses. They grow big, but the canes are very flexible and easy to wrap around railings, poles, trellises, etc. They are perfect for the seashore because they tend to get a lot of mildew disease inland. They only bloom once a year, but it lasts three to four glorious weeks in June/July and the bloom is far more abundant and dense than anything you can imagine. This is the kind of rose you see in pictures of Nantucket and Cape Cod on the white picket fences. They have names like 'Dorothy Perkins', 'American Pillar', 'Lady Gay', 'Francois Juranville', 'Gardenia', 'Alexander Girault' and others. You need to get them from a specialist rose nursery, easy to find online. A cute dwarf shrub rose with tiny double pink flowers that also blooms once a year is called 'Petite Pink Scotch'. Nice leaves, too.

Everybody likes azaleas and rhododendrons. These are hard to grow in full sun, especially in sand. I've had no luck with the typical large-leaf rhododendrons. Much better luck with azaleas, especially if I give them some shade. The ones that do best tend to have small, evergreen leaves, like the Kurume types. Deciduous azaleas that do well are species native to our area and hybrids derived from them. A great one is Rhododendron atlanticum, which can tolerate a lot of sun and has incredibly fragrant white flowers. It's deciduous and likes dry sand (please water it, though!). A good native azalea for wetter places is Rhododendron viscosum, the so-called swamp honeysuckle. If you can find hybrids with one of these species in its ancestry, you are in business.

I'll finish with a short list of successful annual flowers for acidic sand and sun: Gomphrena, Nicotiana, Cleome, Arctotis, Petunia, Zinna angustifolia, Lantana, Portulaca, Scaevola, Cuphea 'David Verity', and Salvia coccinea. Among the bulbs, the best are lilies (especially the tiger lily, Lilium lancifolium, and the brand new orien-pet types). Lilies are perennial, but you need to replant Dahlias every year. Dahlias are worth it since they do amazingly well in these conditions, as long as you give slow release fertilizer and water liberally. Dahlias provide the majority of flower color for me in August and September. A super, low-growing type of Dahlia that blends well with dwarf groundcovers is the Gallery series. Dwarf plants are always smart in a windy place.

Another trick I use is to grow plants that don't like sand, such as tender geraniums, canna lilies, fuchsias, coleus, and most vegetables and herbs in large pots on the deck. With a good potting mix and drip irrigation on a timer, you can grow a huge variety of things.

There are a million more things to tell you, but this is more than enough for now, right? As long as you keep at it, your garden will be absolutely gorgeous. Let us know how it's coming along, OK?


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RE: potentially glorious but very sandy garden

  • Posted by JimShy z7 Brooklyn, NY (My Page) on
    Tue, Dec 13, 05 at 17:11

Wow,

Great lists for seaside gardening! It's useful to note the obvious -- what copes with harsh seaside conditions usually also deals well with city sun, wind, and air quality!

Jim


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RE: potentially glorious but very sandy garden

You're absolutely right, Jim, but there are a few differences between city and seashore gardening. One is temperature. After gardening so many years in Manhattan, I was delighted to find that plants which dislike heat and humidity do much better at the seashore. Not that it isn't powerful muggy out there, but the ocean clime has a beneficial effect on plants like tuberous begonias, dahlias, nasturtiums, fuchsias, annual lobelia and many other things that were lackluster to impossible in the city. It's probably that the nights are minimally more pleasant, since it is night-time heat and humidity that knocks suseptable plants out.

The other big difference is soil pH. Disturbed soil in the city can often be alkaline. My city soil had a pH somewhere around 8 to 8.2. That's awfully alkaline. Gave me a good chance to find alternatives to azaleas, rhodies, skimmia, heather, etc., such as aucuba, holly, mahonia, osmanthus, elaeagnus, sarcococca, etc. Everyone should test their soil (even containers) for pH.

At the beach, the soil is extremely acidic, so another whole world of plants opens up. A current pet is Zenobia pulverulenta. Clearly, if you garden in containers, soil pH is not a limiting issue. And the overriding insight is that there are plants for every soil and situation, as long as you don't get discouraged by what all the books recommend (they are usually wrong), and take dead plants in your stride. If I had to pick a closer match to seashore gardening in the city, I'd say it would be rooftop or terrace gardening.

Which leads me to the last point, then I'll shut up. Hardiness was interesting to learn about at the seashore. I read that the modifying effect of the ocean would allow more tender plants to survive. Not so. I've found that sand is a very poor insulator. Cold air can penetrate and go deep. I've had big losses of zone 7 stuff in bad winters, and that never happened in the city. Even zone 6 things like Miscanthus 'Morning Light' get badly damaged at the root in a bad winter. On the other hand, I've rarely had any dieback on any of the old-fashioned rambler roses, which are quite exposed, wrapped around the deck railings. Maybe the air stays warmer, but the soil gets colder? Sure, I should mulch and insulate, but there's only so much time to spend on a weekend garden, so I keep looking for stuff that can handle winter on it's own.

Of course you also learn that plants for terraces and rooftops need to be one to two zones hardier than the typical zone they are in. Now I just wonder what kind of winter is coming our way....


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RE: potentially glorious but very sandy garden

  • Posted by JimShy z7 Brooklyn, NY (My Page) on
    Thu, Dec 22, 05 at 12:51

Kim, Your posts remind me of days of old, raking up dried eelgrass by the trashcan-full, to be rinsed of salt and used as mulch in my Dad's garden! Another wacky trick -- I read in a cookbook years ago of a FI gardener who buried old matresses a foot or so beneath his beds to hold moisture! I don't think anyone in there right minds would go for that these days, but it does make you wonder about a less toxic/organic substitute? Good luck in winter! Now that we no longer have the house, I'm looking to put in a couple of beach plants on our deck in NYC -- shadbush, blueberry, and maybe a beach plum. Jim


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RE: potentially glorious but very sandy garden

Very interesting lists! Definitely print out these lists for our garden on Cape Cod.

We have also done very well there with double-digging a la John Jeavons BioIntensive organic gardening. Alas, there we also feed a colony of rabbits. Daisy


 
 

 

 


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