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Cold Hardy Palm Success
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Posted by brooklyngreg 7a (My Page) on Wed, Aug 19, 09 at 12:27
I have read and seen in the Brooklyn Botanical Garden much success with cold hardy palms with basic protections. Does anyone else have similar experiences with windmill, sabal minor or needle (even pindo) palms? I have a strong facing southwest backyard blocked off like a courtyard. Its very sunny and warm even on cold days it feels 10 degrees warmer. Its better than the Brooklyn botanical garden location - so I am going to give it a try. Has anyone else?
Tips on winterizing? |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Cold Hardy Palm Success
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| Hi Greg, I recognize your name from the Palms forum. From time to time I'll stop by this forum (as I am not far from NYC) but you'll find it is far from busy (might have better response if you post to NJ or Connecticut forums. Part of the reason why you don't see more really cold hardy palms has been lack of availability and lack of how cold hardy some of them in fact are. So there is not much of a track record of them in the area. But things are changing. For starters, they are a heck of a more more cold hardy species available from local nurseries in recent times. Another reason is that areas outside of NYC (metro NJ and Connecticut have recently been bumped up to zone 7--from 6b). One local nursery is now selling loquat trees (I've had one in the ground for years.) But to return to palms, I do think your best bet is Trachycarpus (fortunei or wagnerianus). Sabals (depending on species) can be VERY cold hardy but most are VERY SLOW (even in the tropics)--your best bet here is Sabal 'Louisiana' (a variety of Sabal known for its relatively faster growth). Or course Rhaphidophyllum (Needles) will be perfectly hardy (but they take a while to get established and never really get a decent trunk). Chamaerops humilis will also work (but you will need to add sand and make sure you have excellent DRAINAGE as they are more Mediterranean and may resent excessively WET conditions. I might eventually experiment with a Butia (Pindo)but cannot recommend it at this point. Trachys though are really unusually palms--one of the VERY few (only?)palms that actually go semi-dormant in response to real cold. In fact, you will find that their leaves may change color or even fold in response to extreme cold (like with Rhododendrons). Then it'll warm slightly (into the 30's) and they revert to normal. They grow best at moderate temps and will even slow or stop at very high temps. One thing that I really would suggest is than you enjoy your cold hardy palms in containers first. WAIT a couple of years for them to get big (big = COLD HARDIER), then plant into the ground. Good luck! |
RE: Cold Hardy Palm Success
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| I have had several palms in the ground for years here in Stamford CT. the Rapidophyllums do just fine and I have covered some trachys that have done well here as well with mimimum protection I unwrapped some this weekend and there was more damge from deampness than cold ,, keep trying ! |
RE: Cold Hardy Palm Success
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| Michael, this was the first Winter that my Trachys went totally unprotected and I consider it a great success. They're about four feet tall and look great even at this early post winter point. So good in fact, that I just planted some others--Rapidophyllum, Chamaerops, Butia capitata, Sabal minor, S. lousiana, S. palmetto, and S. mexicana. Next year, I might experiment with a Washingtonia. Good luck! |
RE: Cold Hardy Palm Success
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| i unwrapped them all this weekend and there was damage and rot to the smaller ones ,,, the two larger ones ,,with trunks about 3-4' were fine ,,,, no damage at all to the rhipidophyllums .. I cannot understand them changing the zone here to 7 ..we had several day of temps around -14 last year , but only a few below zero this year .global warming ! ... my camellias did fine ,, but all the buds froze off ,,as always ! Tried sabals a few times without success ..... I am in Stamford ,,inland from Long island Sound |
RE: Cold Hardy Palm Success
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| Michael, which palm species were damaged? (your posting does not say) Yes, size really does matter in cold hardiness. I have overwintered larger Trachycarpus fortuneis for three years now without damage but a smaller one suffered greatly (bud pulled, burned leaves, etc--but still think it will recuperate). My minimum last winter was 14 F. above, and the minimum for winter 2008-09 was 4 F. above. My camellias are in full bloom now and never suffer bud freeze.--Maybe this should be the standard criteria for zone 7 status. Good luck! |
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