~Bob

If you have larger plants that are ready to flower, low night temps while flowers are forming can cause rough, misshapen fruit in many varieties.

LIR

2 Fourth of July
2 Large Size Plants Husky Red
8 small plants Huskey Red (were in a 6 pack with 2 extras)
4 Early Girl
4 Better Boy
4 Beefsteak
4 Big Bite
4 Supersonic

Also four Pepper plants, Cubanelle and Green Globe.

Usually I get Parks Whoppers but this year I got the Supersonic because I never had them before. And I skipped the Brandywines I usually try to grow with little success. Three years of trying Brandywines usually gets me a tomato or two per plant per season. The rest always rot! Not worth the trouble no matter how wonderfull that tomato tastes! Plus I did not realize I had the Huskey Reds in both the small size and the large size plants until I went to plant them. I had one Huskey Red plant last year and really, really liked the tomatoes. Plus the darn thing set more tomatoes than any other plant in last year's garden.

The planting wasn't too difficult as I had already cleaned out last years old plants, put out composted manure in the plant rows and had the tomato cages already set up.

I had also cut the bottoms out of thin plastic drink cups that I set over each plant. Stops the cutworms. Used to have to replace lots of tomato plants because the cutworms got them but since I have been using the plastic cups for two years, I have not lost a plant to cutworms.

Now I just have to sprinkle Greensand around each plant and throw out some lime and I am done. Already watered them. The lime is great, I find that it stops the tomatoes from getting blossom end rot.

Early next week I will buy my cucumber plants and either put out pole Bean plants or plant seeds, haven't decided. My peas and Brocolli are growing nicely, having been planted weeks ago.

Mine seem to be doing well and I am hoping the warmer weather gets them growing. Only lost one plant, one of the small Huskey Reds that wilted and died, although I don't know why. I had bought two Cherokee Purple Heirloom Tomatoes at Hicks yesterday and was wondering were I was going to put them. I had already filed up my tomato rows. But I squezed one at the end of a row by making the row alittle longer and pulled out the wilted goner Huskey Red and Put the other Cherokee Purple there.

So now i bought 34 plants but have 33 planted because of the one goner.

I have noticed that Hicks is growing more and more Heirloom Variety tomato plants every year. The selection seems to keep geting better. Of course, most you have to buy one plant in a pot for $3.49 apiece and then they have a larger size which is more money. It would take a furtune to put ones whole tomato patch in that way instead of buying six packs but I do get to try interesting varities new to me this way.

I added a Celebrity tomato plant today that I got at Home Depot last week for no reason except that I had to look at all the Tomato plants they had.

All my tomatoes are looking good. My neighbor still has not planted his but said he plans to so I guess there is still time to plant.

4 Early Girl
4 Big Boy
4 Better Boy
4 Big Bite
4 Parks Whoppers
1 Parks Improved Whopper
4 Grape tomato
4 Beefmaster
4 Supersonic
4 Red Plum

I love to eat tomatoes. I put them on sandwiches and in salads and just eat them like you would eat any other fruit. I usually make my own tomato sauce and freeze it but never got around to it last year.

2 Big Beef
3 Rutgers
2 Marglobe
6 LaRoma

They say it will get warmer on Sunday and Monday (in the 70s :-) let's hope so.

Where is this Global Warming everyone talks about? I could go for some right now.

10 Early Girl
4 Grape Tomato
4 Big Bite
6 Parks Whopper
6 Big Boy
6 Better Boy
6 Italian Beefstake
Total of 42 tomato plants put in today!!!

I think I have room for about two more but thats it for this year unless there are any that need replacing. Going back on this thread I see that in 2004 I planted tomatoes on May 7th and this year on May 6th so I am a day ahead. Last year was so cold so I planted later!

p.s. we are going to the Bayard Cutting arboretum on Sat if you want to join us.

I mulched my tomato garden today with straw. It looks funny but is great for the plants as it stops the weeds and holds moisture in the soil. Usually I use bagged leaves from the fall but I didn't have enough leaves this year so had to go for the straw.

Many people mistakenly believe that tomato plants are near impossible to start from seed and that the only way to have tomatoes in their garden is to purchase potted plants from their local plant nursery. While buying already growing plants has its benefits, starting tomatoes from seed really isn’t as difficult as you may have been led to believe. By starting your own seeds you open the door to a much greater number of plant types, as well as the ability to start your seeds in exactly the manner you wish them to be grown (1000% organically for example).

To begin, you need to select the absolute best seeds possible. Buy seeds from a reputable seed catalog or local grower. Avoid seeds that show signs of damage or deformity, or those that have already germinated. Seeds should be nearly perfect for best results.

Since there are so many varieties of tomatoes, pay close attention to the plant description before you purchase it! There are three main varieties of tomatoes: cherry tomatoes, determinates, and indeterminates. Cherry tomatoes are small, bunching tomatoes that are prefect for salads or snacks. They are extremely easy to grow, and are the most tolerant of the tomato types. They are also excellent for container gardening.

Determinates are often called bush tomatoes because they remain small and bushy. They are generally early crop tomatoes making them ideal for spring gardens. Because of their smaller, bushy size they rarely need staking or caging and make excellent plants for container gardens. Indeterminates are later crop vine tomatoes that will grow and grow until they are pruned back. They require staking or caging.

Once you have your seeds, you need a place for them to grow. Any manner of pot or planter can be used, however, keep in mind that your seedlings will eventually need to be transferred into a garden (or bigger pot if you are container gardening) so ease of removal from the pot you start them in is important. Your growing place will also need to be compatible with where the plants will reside. A narrow planter is excellent for a windowsill; commercial seed starter flats are practical for growers who utilize grow lights. It is also important that any container you choose for your tomato plants provides good drainage.

Seeds and containers can’t get much done without a good soil, and a good growing medium is critical to starting tomato seeds. Tomatoes are a bit picky about the type of soil they grow in. Like most vegetables they like a slightly acid soil. If you have rich garden soil available it is perfectly acceptable to use your own soil. It should be free of rocks and debris. However, composted soil should not be used, and compost should not be added to your garden soil. Most compost contains seeds from other plants that will cause your tomato seedlings to have to compete for space and nutrients resulting in poor growth, and even a complete lack of germination and growth all together. If you are purchasing potting soil, you will need to add nutrients to it. Tomato seedlings need a great deal of nutrients to get going. Adding a fertilizer specifically designed for tomatoes or manure is an excellent way to get your seeds the nutrients they need. In addition, adding crushed egg shells, bone meal or a commercial calcium additive to your potting soil will help prevent a major cause of tomato plant death; blossom end rot. Blossom end rot is caused by a lack of calcium in soil and results in blossoms falling off of the plants, which of course means no tomatoes!

Now that you have all your supplies, plant your seeds to the depth specified by the package, water, and wait for them to germinate! Seedlings should emerge within a week or a bit more, and will grow very quickly! Young plants should be transplanted into the garden or a large container when they are about 6 inches tall. If your seedlings are going into the garden, begin the process of acclimating them to the environment about a week before transplanting if possible. This process of ‘hardening off’ the seedlings will reduce the shock of transplanting and result in less plant loss.

Once your plant is in its final destination, a sturdy cage or stake should be placed next to it to provide the tomato vine with support as it grows. Which method to use is a matter of preference. Commercially available cages are extremely easy to use, and don’t require that the plant be tied as it grows as is necessary when using a stake.

Tomato plants are sun loving, and relish full sun. At least six hours a day of full sun is required for tomatoes to produce good fruits. They also benefit vastly from being side dressed with a good fertilizer of either manure or a commercially available product designed for tomatoes. The plants should be kept evenly moist throughout the growing season. With a little care and planning you can have a wonderful variety of tomatoes through the growing season in your region.